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Climbing Etiquette

The Do's and Dont's of Climbing Culture



I’ve just started climbing and there are so many experienced climbers around me. I feel like I keep getting in the way, and I want to make sure I’m respectful to other climbers. But I’m not sure what I should be doing. Help!

It’s totally normal to feel a little awkward when you first start climbing. There are few unspoken rules that should be followed in a climbing gym, which most of us have learned by hanging out with the community, or by observation (and unwittingly embarrassing ourselves!). Well, we’ve saved you a few faux pas and the trouble of fumbling your way through. Read on to learn what you need to know about climbing etiquette.

 

Where do I stand/sit when I’m not climbing?

Rule #1 in the gym: Always be aware of where you are standing. Always.

This is key, and cannot be overstated. Be aware of climbers around you and their fall zones. Needless to say, don’t stand where they might fall. If you’re unsure, give them a wider berth. Some high momentum falls can land quite far from the wall or in unexpected directions, so better be safe than sorry. The same goes for your belongings – make sure you keep them close to you and out of the path of climbers.

Climbing gyms are all designed differently – some have clearly designated areas where it’s safe to sit or stand while you rest. Others are less clear, where there are only narrow areas on the mat, and they aren’t always demarcated. Just be constantly aware of climber’s movements around you so you can move if someone starts climbing near you.

Generally speaking, if a climber falls on you, you only have yourself to blame!

 

I didn’t see them climbing there!

Being aware of other climbers is also very important when you’re climbing or are about to climb. Routes often overlap with each other, which poses two potential problems:

  1.   There is a risk of a climber falling on you or you falling on someone else. This can happen if someone has already started a climb which overlaps with yours, and they end up climbing above or below you.

  2.   If you end up climbing at the same height, you’ll have an awkward time trying to reach around each other for your holds.


In either case, the climber who started first gets to continue.

If you started later, you should hop off the climb and wait till they are finished. If you start a climb and notice early on that you may enter another climber’s space, you might be able to stop and wait on the climb. Only do this if it’s safely out of their climbing space and fall zone, and you can maintain your position comfortably.

 

How do I queue for a climb?

If there are a few people attempting a climb, basic pre-school rules apply – take turns, and if you’re unsure, ask if it’s your turn.

Here’s an overview to join the queue for a climb:

  • Stand near the climb (out of any fall zones or onlooker’s line of sight) and wait for a moment between climbers

  • It helps to look engaged and active, as not to be mistaken for someone just observing

  • When there is a break between climbers, it’s safe for you to start climbing

  • If there does not seem to be any appropriate break between climbers, ask if it’s cool for you to go next. Don’t worry, they won’t bite - climbers tend to be a pretty chill bunch.

       If a route is very crowded already, it’s better to come back when it’s less busy. It means more time for you to give it a go later!

Not sure if someone is in the queue? Here are some cues to look out for:

  • They are standing in front of the climb and appear to be reading it

  • They are discussing beta for the climb with someone else

  • They’ve chalked up and are looking at the route

  • They are looking out for anyone else about to try the climb

  • They’ve just brushed the climb (more on this later)

  • Their neck muscles are bulging out from anticipation of sending the climb (just kidding... Kind of…)

 



I’m working on an awesome climb – how many times can I attempt it?

As many times as you want!

The one caveat is to make sure others get a go too. Make sure to take turns with other climbers. It’s always a good idea to rest in between climbs so you can always give the climb 110%.

Sometimes you just fall off on the start hold or very first move – we get those brain-fart moments too. In this case, it’s fine to attempt it again straight away, especially if it’s a quick start. Just don’t hold up the queue for too long!

 

Brushing holds

Those who brush it, crush it.

If someone brushes a route they are working on, they should always be the next person to climb it (unless they’re an angel and are brushing it for someone else – we like people who help people brush). Brushing a slimy, chalky hold can be the key to sending a climb. So jumping onto a climb after someone has just finished brushing it for themselves is considered impolite. Please, be respectful and keep the holds clean till the brusher is ready to climb. Unless he/she insists for you to go first, in which case it'll be nice for you to brush the holds again after your attempt.

On that note, sometimes you might finish a climb and leave it noticeably chalkier. It’s a good idea to brush down the holds a little before moving on. It’s just about respecting other climbers and giving them the best chance of sending!

And as always, be mindful of your surroundings, even when brushing. Try not to spray people with chalk residue. This is particularly important if you’re cleaning higher holds - nobody needs a chalk shower!

 


Can I climb without my shoes? My feet hurt…

While walking around the gym barefoot is a very normal and expected thing to see, please refrain from climbing barefoot, for basic hygiene reasons. Those footholds may be another person’s hand hold, so it’s like putting your feet all over their hands. No thanks.

Campus-ing a climb is probably the only exception to the rule, as you don’t use any feet on the holds.

 

When should I spot someone?

Spotting can be a bit of an art. Knowing where to stand, how to direct a fall, and whether the climber even wants a spotter is an individual preference.

Generally, sports climbing in gyms rarely need a spotter because crash mats are usually more than enough. However, some gym designs have more narrow crash mat areas where a climber could potentially fall off the mat or into another wall. In these situations, they may ask for someone to spot them. Or if you see potential danger, you can keep an eye out for them in case they fly in the wrong direction.

Here's an overview of how to spot a climber:

  • Stand in their approximate landing zone such that you can track their hips/torso to guide their fall, but at an angle where they won’t fall into you

  • If they fall, ensure their hips land in a safe area – on the crash mat and nothing else

  • Ensure that you keep your fingers closed together to prevent injury to yourself

  • Watch their head. You don’t want your climber to get a whiplash or hit their head against your knee!

For gyms that use individual, movable pads, you can shift the pads to ensure there is always at least one beneath the climber. Do make sure no one else was using that mat before shifting it.

Another way to watch out for climbers is to warn anyone walking underneath or too close to someone’s fall zone. Just respectfully ask them to shift out of the danger zone (or yank them out of the way if the climber looks like he/she is on the verge of dropping a flying elbow drop). This is why being aware of your surroundings is so important.

 



Climbers are so friendly – what’s with that?

For anyone who has attempted any sort of climbing, you’ll know it’s as much a mental sport as it is a physical one. The climbing community is well known for its supportive, encouraging ethos, and we believe it’s one of the best parts about our sport. This culture is something every climber is responsible of maintaining – we’d like to do our part in teaching the way of the climber here.

Encourage climbers. It seems a little obvious, but negative talk or putting down other people is just not cool. Climbing has an organic system where new climbers learn from the more experienced, then they are adopted into climbing groups and become the more experienced ones. Eventually, they pass their knowledge onto other new climbers, and so the cycle continues. This practice of helping other climbers (rather than belittling them or excluding them) makes climbing more social and, in our opinion, enjoyable. Not only do they benefit from your experience and generosity, but you learn different styles or beta as well!

Shouting out encouragement and (helpful) beta in the gym can be a little group or gym specific. Personally speaking, I love a good bit of psyching up from my climbing buddies, so I’m all for it. If you’re a big encourager too, firstly thank you for the hype you bring to the sport! Do just be mindful of other climbers, as some prefer a quieter, calmer environment. As always, be aware of your surroundings and the mental space other climbers are in.

 

Beta – to share or not to share?

While the above section does say to help and encourage, do just check you’re not giving unsolicited advice.

The risk of giving unwanted beta is that you may take away someone’s chance to on-sight a climb (to send a climb without any prior knowledge or beta). Furthermore, many climbers enjoy the puzzle of figuring out beta themselves. Just be mindful of the different goals people may have in climbing, and check before offering beta.

Discussing a route and how to solve it can be a great way to meet new friends – just test the waters first if your advice is needed or not. And as you get to know your climbing buddies better, you’ll quickly get a sense of how receptive they are to beta.

 



All these rules may seem overwhelming having them told to you like this, but it will feel natural when you’re in the gym. Don’t worry too much about missing out something – mistakes happen, we get it! Gym etiquette is more art than science, and like anything, just takes a little bit of practice.